PENANG RICE SALAD (NASI KERABU)

Make sure to buy the larger dried shrimp and select those that are bright pink or pink-orange (they brown and harden with age). Lesser grades of dried shrimp tend to be unpleasantly pungent. It’s also important to use a fine-quality rice—what you can buy at most supermarkets will yield mediocre results.

1 3/4 cups jasmine rice
3 cups water
1/3 cup packaged unsweetened dried coconut
1/4 cup fine-quality dried shrimp (1 oz) - available in Asian markets
1 large fresh lemongrass stalk, 1 or 2 outer leaves discarded and root end trimmed
3 (2 1/2-inch-long) fresh or thawed frozen Kaffir lime leaves
1 (1/2-inch) piece peeled fresh or thawed frozen turmeric** (optional), finely grated
1 large shallot, halved lengthwise and very thinly sliced crosswise (3/4 cup)
5 tablespoons very thinly sliced fresh Vietnamese basil or fresh cilantro (from 1 bunch)
3 tablespoons very thinly sliced fresh mint
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt

Wash rice in several changes of cold water in a bowl until water is clear, then drain well in a sieve. Combine with 3 cups fresh water in a 2 1/2-quart heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and cook, covered, until rice is tender and water is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, 5 minutes. Fluff gently with a fork, then transfer 5 cups to a large shallow baking pan and cool to warm room temperature. Reserve remaining rice for another use.

While rice is cooking, toast coconut in a dry heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) over moderately low heat, stirring constantly, until golden, 4 to 6 minutes, then transfer to a small bowl to cool. Pulse in grinder once or twice (do not overgrind or you will end up with coconut butter), then return to small bowl. Finely grind shrimp in grinder until very fluffy, about 1 minute. Thinly slice lower 6 inches of lemongrass stalk and very finely mince slices. Cut out central veins and stems from lime leaves with a sharp knife, then slice leaves lengthwise into hair-thin strips.

Toss together rice, coconut, dried shrimp, lemongrass, lime leaves, turmeric (if using), shallot, basil, mint, 2 tablespoons lime juice, white pepper, and salt until combined well and free of lumps, then season with additional salt and lime juice if necessary. Serve immediately.